Taste of Mexico: Chiles en Nogada

Last year, I wrote astir the fable of chile en nogada — and however the beloved communicative of its invention to grant Mexico’s independency is, astatine best, folklore. The communicative goes that successful 1821, erstwhile Agustín de Iturbide signed the Treaty of Córdoba, the patriotic nuns of Puebla created a crockery successful the colors of the caller flag: greenish chile, achromatic walnut sauce, and reddish pomegranate seeds. It’s a beauteous narrative, 1 repeated successful textbooks and edifice menus alike.

The truth, however, is messier. Chiles en nogada are older — astir 300 years aged — and portion the crockery is undeniably Mexican, it was calved of collision, not of independence. The poblano chile is native, of course, but its stuffing is simply a hybrid of the Old and New Worlds: apples, pears, peaches, almonds, and raisins, fruits and nuts carried crossed the Atlantic by the Spanish, blended with pork and beef. Even the walnut condiment (nogada), without which the crockery would beryllium unthinkable, lone exists due to the fact that of Iberian arrival.

(Julia Estrada)

Yet story oregon not, thing feels much patriotic than eating 1 successful September. Mexico’s nationalist period would beryllium unrecognizable without this indulgence.

My ain loyalties prevarication successful Puebla, the dish’s birthplace, where chiles en nogada are a substance of some pridefulness and rivalry. The city’s astir accepted restaurants — Casa Barroca, Casareyna, and much recently, Custodia — each assertion to marque the definitive version. I’m partial to the archetypal two. Friends importune Custodia’s rendition is transcendent, though I’ll confess I haven’t tried it since my household moved distant from Puebla and my visits became rare.

Still, there’s a peculiar restitution successful making the crockery yourself. It is, successful galore ways, the eventual location ritual: laborious, festive, and profoundly rewarding. Below, I connection 2 versions — 1 traditional, 1 vegan — for those who privation to bring a sensation of Puebla to their September tables.

Traditional Chile en Nogada (Unbattered)

A note: galore recipes telephone for the chiles to beryllium dipped successful ovum batter and fried. I’ve ne'er liked the result. To me, the coating overwhelms the delicate equilibrium of sweet, savory, and nutty flavors that makes the crockery sing. So these versions are unapologetically naked.

Ingredients (for 4 servings)
Chiles and Filling

• 4 ample poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, and deveined
• 250 g cooked pork, finely chopped
• 100 g cooked beef, finely chopped
• 1 ripe plantain, fried successful tiny cubes
• 1 panochera apple, diced
• 1 beverage pear, diced
• 1 peach, diced
• 80 g blanched almonds, chopped
• 60 g raisins
• 80 g conifer nuts
• ½ onion, finely chopped
• 3 ail cloves, minced
• 3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 2 cloves
• Salt and capsicum to taste
• Vegetable oil

Nogada (Walnut Sauce)

• 1 cupful walnuts, peeled and soaked successful acold beverage for 2 hours
• ½ cupful milk
• 100 g goat food (or caller food and pick mix)
• ½ cupful Mexican crema
• 1–2 tbsp sugar
• 1–2 tbsp adust sherry oregon brandy
• Salt to taste

To garnish

• Pomegranate seeds
• Fresh parsley, chopped

Preparation

1. Roast the poblanos implicit unfastened occurrence until blistered. Place successful a integrative container to sweat, past peel carefully. Make a slit and region seeds and veins without tearing the chile.
2. For the filling: sauté bulb and ail successful oil. Add meats, tomatoes, and spices. When the herb releases its juices, fold successful plantain, apple, pear, peach, almonds, conifer nuts, raisins. Season and navigator until the substance is adust and cohesive.
3. For the nogada: blend soaked walnuts, milk, cheese, crema, sugar, and sherry until smooth. Adjust seasoning. Chill until acceptable to serve.
4. Stuff chiles, put connected plates, bathe with nogada, and garnish generously with pomegranate and parsley.

Vegan/Vegetarian Chile en Nogada (Unbattered)

(Ahleli/Wikimedia Commons)

Ingredients (for 6 servings)

Chiles and Filling

• 6 ample poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, and deveined
• 300 g mushrooms, finely chopped, oregon cooked lentils
• 1 panochera apple, diced
• 1 beverage pear, diced
• 1 peach, diced
• 1 ripe plantain, diced and fried
• 50 g blanched almonds, chopped
• 50 g walnuts, chopped
• 2 tbsp conifer nuts
• 60 g raisins
• ¼ achromatic onion, finely chopped
• 2 ail cloves, minced
• 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
• 1 tiny guava, diced (optional)
• 1 tsp crushed cinnamon
• Pinch crushed clove
• Salt and pepper
• Vegetable oil

Vegan Nogada

• 1 cupful walnuts, peeled and soaked successful plant-based beverage for 2 hours
• 100 g blanched almonds
• 1 tiny bolillo rotation soaked successful plant-based beverage (optional)
• 1 cupful plant-based beverage (adjust for consistency)
• 1 tbsp brownish sweetener oregon maple syrup
• Splash of adust sherry (optional)
• Salt and pepper

To garnish

• Pomegranate seeds
• Fresh parsley, chopped

Preparation

1. Roast poblanos arsenic above.
2. For the filling: sauté bulb and garlic, past adhd mushrooms (or lentils) until cooked through. Add tomato, followed by fruits, nuts, and spices. Cook until integrated and somewhat dry.
3. Blend each nogada ingredients into a creaseless sauce, adjusting consistency and seasoning.
4. Stuff chiles, plate, screen with acold nogada, and decorate with pomegranate and parsley.

María Meléndez is a Mexico City nutrient blogger and influencer.